South African assault on the Polish Glacier Direct Route

The Polish Glacier Direct Route, one of the more technical routes on Aconcagua, was opened in 1934 by a team of Polish mountaineers.

The route, which involves a long, icy glacier ascent requiring full ice climbing gear, is known worldwide for its natural beauty and enormous landscapes. It has become in one of the classic routes for sportive enthusiasts.

Very few, if any, South Africans have climbed or even seen this route. Our research has led us to believe that to date there have been no successful South African summits via this route.

February 2009 will see South Africans Andrew Raubenheimer and Dobek Pater attempt the ‘Sentinel of Stone’ via the Polish Glacier Direct Route.

As it is a very technical route the Polish Glacier Direct Route requires a rather heavy load of equipment to enable a safe climb through the glacier.

Some of  the summit day equipment load will, in addition to rope, harnesses, helmet  and slings, consist of ice screws, locking carabiners, cordelettes, nuts, spring loaded camming devices, daisy chains and belay devices. The usual belt of heavy metal that non-mountaineers find strange.